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AMERICAN SILKS 


AT THE 


PARIS EXPOSITION OF 1900. 


Report by FRANKLIN ALLEN, 

l 

Secretary of the Silk Association of America and Member of the International 

fury of Awards. 


Broadway, Corner Broome Street, 
New York City. 

August, 1900. 





rj ‘ 


T£ IL^lo 
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New York, August, 1900. 
To The Silk Association of America: 

Gentlemen: Having been requested by the United States 
Commission to the Paris Exposition of 1900 to serve as a Juror 
on behalf of the United States in the examination and judging 
of silks at the Exposition, I sailed from New York on the 16th 
of May last. I arrived in London on the 23rd of May and in 
Paris on the 27th. On May 31st the Silk Jury was formally 
organized and an adjournment taken until the nth of June. 
That date was eventually changed until the 15th of June to 
allow necessary time for clerical work and preparation of a 
catalogue of exhibitors. The time meanwhile was occupied 
by me in a visit to Zurich and Lyons, the centres of silk man¬ 
ufacture in Switzerland and France. 

The Jury reconvened on the 15th of June, and from the 16th 
until the 29th unceasing labor was daily performed in the 
examination of articles exhibited and determination of awards. 
On the 19th of July the Group Jury (Group 13) confirmed the 
awards of the International Silk Jury (Class 83), leaving the 
awards thus made to be finally confirmed by the Superior Jury, 

which was scheduled to meet on July 27th. But the Superior 

(* 

Jury failed to meet on that date, owing to the intense heat then 
prevailing in Paris; and deeming a longer stajr undesirable, I 
sailed for home on the steamer “Deutschland,” leaving Cher¬ 
bourg on July 30th. I arrived in New York on August 6th, 
an don August 20th, I received a cablegram from Paris advising 
me that the Superior Jury have finally confirmed the awards 
of the two Juries below thus making binding on the Govern¬ 
ment of France the awards of merit which had been recom¬ 
mended and approved. 

The awards to the American manufacturers are set out in 
the accompanying report, which I have the honor to submit as 
the result of my observations at the capital of the great Re¬ 
public of France. 











By m 

MAY 1 1913 
















F RANCE continues to be the greatest silk manufacturing 
country in the world in the amount of its annual produc¬ 
tion, leaving out the Oriental countries, concerning which we 
have no reliable information as to their production. 

A most admirable series of charts, prepared by M. Marius 
Morand, Secretary of the Chamber of Commerce of Lyons, and 
exhibited at the Paris Exhibition, indicates the annual produc¬ 
tion of the principal silk manufacturing countries. His esti¬ 
mates, modified in a few instances by more correct estimates by 
members of the Silk Jury, are as follows: 

Per cent. 


Silk Production of 
the World. „ 

France . 

United States; 

Germany. 

Switzerland. 

Russia (in Europe). 

A ustria.. 

Great Britain . 

Italy. 

Spain and Portugal. 


Millions of 

U. S. < 

of Produc¬ 

Francs. 

Dollars. 

tion. 

610^000,000 

$122,000,000 

33-425 

425.000,000 

85,000,000 

23.288 

250,000,000 

50,000,000 

13.700 

190,000,000 

38,000,000 

10.411 

105,000.000 

21,000,000 

5-753 

85,000,000 

17,000,000 

4.657 

75,000,000 

15.000,000 

4.109 

65,000.000 

13,000,000 

3 - 56 i 

20,000,000 

4,000,000 

• 1.096 


1,825,000,000 365,000.000 100 p. c. 

We know also that the annual supply of raw silk in the 
world is contributed in about the following proportion by the 
various countries. 



China. 

. 41.5 per cent, or say, 14,330,000 lbs. 

Raw Silk Supply 
of the World. 

Japan. 

Italy. 

France. 

. 20. 

. 3-3 

7,100,000 “ 
6,900,000 ** 
1,330,000 “ 


Austria. 

. 1.8 

620,000 “ 

Spain. 

India... 


. 5 “ 

175,000 “ 
600,000 “ 

Levant. 



3,400,000 “ 

• 


100 per cent. 

34,455,000 lbs. 


France, therefore, while not maintaining her former promi¬ 
nence in raw silk culture, nevertheless maintains her foremost 
position in the fabrication of pure silk and silk mixed goods. 























4 — 


The contributory causes are not hard to find. The disease 
which afflicted the silkworms of France some years ago brought 
temporary idleness to thousands of her silk reelers and opera¬ 
tives, and gradually these silk workers have been affiliated into 
other channels of industry which pay better and more certain 
wages; and the silk manufacturers of France are well content to 
purchase their raw silk in Italy, Japan and China, which three 
countries furnish four-fifths of the world’s supply at a much 
lower wage-rate than now obtainable in France. There being 
no tariff duty levied in France on the importation of raw silk, 
the French silk manufacturers are thus on even terms with the 
silk manufacturers of the United States in this respect. 

On the other hand, France has a great ad- 
Paris Fashions. vantage over other nations because Paris, its 

capital, is the principal centre of the civilized 
world, whence are issued the decrees of Fashion which control 
all the artistic developments in women’s dress for the entire 
world. 

For generations Paris has regulated and controlled what 
women shall wear, and the materials which shall compose their 
best gowns in all the capitals of Europe and America. Having 
this centre in their midst is no small advantage to the manu¬ 
facturers of France. 

It is a noticeable fact at the Paris Exposition of 1900 that 
the countries which do not follow the lead of Paris Fashions in 
designs and styles of silk fabrics confine their productions to 
their own countries’ demands, which necessarily are very 
limited. For instance, the silk fabrics of Greece, Bulgaria, 
Roumania, Servia, Algeria, Portugal, and Russia (outside of 
Moscow), while admittedly unique and interesting, and show¬ 
ing considerable skill both in weaving, design and coloring, 
have no abiding interest except to purchasers in their own 
countries. Because they do not adopt world fashions, they are 
not world-competitors in these products. 

The one notable exception to this rule is 
Japan. Japan. They have made at the Exposition a 

wonderful display of habutaye, brochee, 
damassee, surah, taffeta and printed tissues. Naturally, their 
productions are “sui generis,” and are examples of silk fabrics 
made and sold in their own country. Nevertheless, the com- 




— 5 — 


mercial fact is that the Japanese are exporting annually to 
Europe and the United States over one million dozens of silk 
handkerchiefs and thirty million yards of piece goods Among 
hundreds of piciure-like draperies, emblematic of Japanese art 
at the Exposition, one very beautiful specimen of a silk em¬ 
broidered landscape (about io x 18 feet in size) was reported 
sold to Madame Sarah Bernhardt for 9,400 francs. 

The silk industry of Russia deserves more 
Russia. than a passing reference. There were at 

least five exhibits of silk tissues, and one of 
gold and silver embroideries on silk, exhibited by the silk man¬ 
ufacturers of Moscow, which especially excited the attention 
of the Silk Jury. The fact is that a determined effort has been 
made, in cooperation with the Russian Government to establish 
the silk industry there. One example of its development will 
show the trend of events in the silk industry of Russia, and the 
following statistics are taken from a monograph distributed by 
Monsieur C. Giraud, one of the exhibitors from Moscow. 

He went from Lyons to Moscow in 1875, an ^> as himself 
describes it, began work in a very modest way. He soon 
realized, however, the possibilities of a great business. In con¬ 
junction with Government aid, he secured a considerable tract 
of land at Moscow, on which to develop his plans and to build 
his fortune. 

He quotes his own production in— 

1875-6 at 135,500 archines* 

1880-1 at 375.500 
1885 6 at 843.47 2 “ 

1890-1 at 2,006,000 “ 

1895 6 at 6.259,517 

1899 to April, 1900 at 12,000.000 “ 

And he estimates the production of 

1900 at 15.000,000 “ 

He has a dormitory of 1,250 beds in his establishment, and 
a refectory for 4,150 operatives. His establishments are lighted 
with 4,700 incandescent electric lights and 12 arc lights. His 
power looms number 2,100, and his hand looms 30. Many of 
his employees and staff are French, and are housed on the 
premises in apartments suitable for families and for celibates. 


* L'archine equals 711 millimetres—say, 28 inches. 




— 6 


All the branches of a first-class establishment—viz., throwing, 
dyeing and printing—are included in his plant. 

When inspecting the great silk dyeing plant of Monsieur 
Gillet, at Lyons, in June, the writer was informed by M. Gillet 
fils that his father is now seriously contemplating the building 
near Moscow of a complete silk dyeing and printing establish¬ 
ment for the accommodation of the growing silk manufacturers 
of Moscow. The importance and bearing of this new enterprise 
of Monsieur Gillet’s will best be understood by those who rank 
him as the greatest silk dyer and printer in Europe. 

It only remains tc add that the Russian Government’s aid to 
these enterprises is a tariff of eighty-five (85) per cent, on all 
foreign silk goods ! ! 

Other European countries making noticeable contributions to 
the silk exhibits at Paris are Germany and Switzerland. 

The Germans have astonished the French by 
Germany. the excellence of their velvet manufactures, 
the principal material of which is schappe or 
spun silk, reeled silk forming not more than three to five per 
cent, of the fabrication. Mr. Christophe Andreae, of Mulheim, 
on-the-Rhine, who is the largest producer of velvet in the 
world, and an acknowledged leader in high novelties, makes 
a highly creditable display of his specialties. Messrs. W. 
Schroeder & Co., of Crefeld, show a great variety of silk tissues 
of great excellence, without which the importance of the Ger¬ 
mans as silk manufacturers would not be fully represented at 
this Exposition. Piece-dyed tissues of the best standard are 
well shown by Messrs. Krahnen and Gobbers, of Crefeld. 

In beauty of installation the Swiss silk man- 

Switzerland. ufacturers have outshone all competitors, 

and their products are not outclassed by 
similar exhibits from any country. 

Reference may be pardoned to the strikingly beautiful exhi¬ 
bit of Messrs. Robt. Schwarzenbach & Co., of Thalweil, Zurich. 
While Mr. Schwarzenbach is a Swiss, his business genius has 
so developed the silk manufacture inherited from his father in 
Switzerland that he has successfully established silk enterprises 
in Germany, France, Italy and the United States, thus illus¬ 
trating the commercial instinct which overleaps National 
boundaries in the development of a great business. 


— 7 — 

Mr. Schwarzenbach is undoubtedly the largest silk manu¬ 
facturer in the world, giving steady employment to over 15,000 
operatives, and his purchases of raw silk to supply these estab¬ 
lishments so diversely situated amount to over three per cent, 
of the entire annual production of the world. The Silk Jury, 
at the Exposition of 1900, has been honored by the services and 
judgment of this distinguished manufacturer, and, being one 
of its members, his exhibit is naturally “hors-concours.” 

Austria makes a small but praiseworthy ex- 
Austria, England hibit; likewise England, where free-trade is 
and Italy. gradually diminishing the importance of her 

silk industry. Italy makes a splendid show¬ 
ing of raw silks, cocoons, etc., but her exhibit of silk tissues is 
relatively not so important. 

Spain has not many exhibitors, but the silk 
Spain. and velvet tissues, ribbons and upholsteries 

shown by the Barcelona manufacturers are 
creditable and worthy of mention. 

Last, but not least, of the European countries 
France. we come to France, the great country which 

has uniformly fostered International Exposi¬ 
tions of the art and industry of the world, and which claims 
our admiration and gratitude for the beneficent effects which 
these Expositions have had upon industrial art in Europe and 
America. 

Lyon is the birthplace—the cradle—the home for centuries 
of the silk-weaving industry in Europe. It is a striking fact 
to an American that some Lyons members of the Silk Jury 
represent existing firms that were established as long ago as 
the Constitution of the United States of America. Her annual 
production of silk products is, say 400,000,000 francs, being 
two-thirds of the entire production of France, which is now 
claimed to be as follows: 

Lyon. 400,000,000 Francs. 

St. Etinenne (ribbons). 100,000,000 

Paris. 30,000,000 

Calais, Le Nord, etc. 80,000,000 


Total 


610,000,000 Francs. 








— 8 — 


The French members of the Silk Jury at the 
Members of the Exposition of 1900 number 15. Of this 
Jury. number 8 are from Lyon alone, so that the 

preponderating influence of Lyon in deter¬ 
mining standards of merit on the great variety of goods 
exhibited, the awards to exhibitors, etc., is apparent. 

The constitution of the Silk Jury at this Exposition was as 
follows: 


France.. 

Switzerland.... 

Italy. 

Germany.:. 

Austria. 

Russia. 

Spain. 

Greece. 

China. 

Japan. 

United States 
Great Britain., 


15 

2 

2 

1 

1 

1 

j 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 


Members. 


Member. 


(but did not serve). 


It should be said, however, and it may be as well to say it 
here, that the French Members of the Jury were as a rule men 
of decided ability as experts or manufacturers, and men of 
conceded distinction in the circles which know them best. A 
number of them were privileged to wear the red ribbon of the 
Legion of Honor of France. 

Though naturally predisposed to look with favor on the silk 
manufacturers of France, the record as made up bears testi¬ 
mony to their impartiality and fairness in dealing with the 
exhibits of their competitors from other countries, and it is 
but simple justice to these distinguished men to say that they 
performed their arduous labors with zeal, conscientiousness and 
ability, and that in the outcome of the awards every foreign 
member of the Jury was satisfied with the recompenses be¬ 
stowed upon the exhibitors from his country as a whole. The 
further fact that 23 of the exhibits in the silk section of the 
Exposition were not subject to competition (Hors Concours), ' 
because members of the Jury were themselves identified with 
firms exhibiting, is additional evidence, were it needed, of the 
wide range of the ability of the personnel composing this jury. 

France consumes about as much raw silk as the United States, 
her consumption being figured by M. Morand as 4,100,000 kilo- 


















9 “ 


grams, while that of the United States is figured by the writer 
as 4,500,000, say 10,000,000 lbs. annually. 

The claimed production of Lyon is, as stated 
Lyon. above 400,000,000 francs. This includes how¬ 

ever a considerable proportion of silk and 
cotton mixtures (melange), the manufacture of which has 
been greatly developed there: the total is further swollen by 
including, as Lyon manufactures, the foulards imported from 
Japan and China which amount to about 15,000,000 francs 
annually, and, being printed in Lyon, are returned as Lyon 
manufactures to the amount of 20,000,000 francs. . Strictly 
speaking the value of the silk production (woven abroad) should 
not be included in any correct statement of the gross volume of 
the local production. 

The silk ribbon industry of France is almost 
St. Etienne. exclusively confined to St. Etienne, where 

the annual production is estimated by Mon¬ 
sieur C. Brossy, Secretary of the Silk Jury at Paris, to be 
100,000,000 francs. This is rather less than the volume of the 
silk ribbon production in the United States which is estimated 
at 120,000,000 francs annually. 

While the silk exhibits of France at this 
Exposition Not Pro- Exposition may be conceded to be splendid 
lific in in character, both as a whole and in detail 

New Processes. in all the varieties of industrial art, never¬ 
theless it may be said that nothing absolutely 
new that bids fair to be of lasting interest has been developed 
by the Exposition of 1900. That is to say, although a great 
deal that is new and admirable in variety and adaptation of 
designs is shown, no pronounced feature of new modes of con¬ 
struction is discernible. True, there is an exhibit of pure silk 
and silk-mixed ribbons shown by the Societe Anonyme des 
Tissages, of St. Etienne (Mess Camille Brun & Fils, 14, Rue 
de la Paix) which are woven on looms patented by them 
without shuttle (sans navette), but enquiry developes the 
commercial fact, that not more than four or five such looms 
are actually in operation. It is a question of the future there¬ 
fore rather than of to-day. In this connection it may be noted 
that an American ribbon loom, having the same central idea of 
no shuttle, is being exploited in Europe and America during 


IO 


the current season by Mr. W. T. P. Hollingsworth, of the 
Paterson Ribbon Company. Greater rapidity in weaving is 
claimed for this system of construction. 

The exhibit of the Societe Anonyme pour la Fabrication de 
la Soie de Chardonnet, at Besangon, in France, is also inter- 
ing and striking. The eye is charmed with the beauty of 
woven goods of their manufacture made from artificial silk, 
the filling being wood fibre (cellulose nitree). Samples of the 
wood in its native state are shown; the designs of the woven 
material are delightful and the coloring brilliant: yet the 
initiated would never think of lining a mackintosh or a water¬ 
proof garment with this material, for as soon as water touches 
it, it falls to pieces. Real silk goods absorb water, and are not 
injured, much less destroyed, by it. 

Outside of velvets and upholstery silks no fabrics, made from 
schappe or spun silk, are noticeable at this Exposition. Taking 
them in alphabetical order, the French exhibitors, who have 
made specially noteworthy contributions to the artistic success 
of the Paris Exposition, of 1900, may be stated as follows: 

Atuyer, Bianchini, Ferier & Cie. , Lyon. 
Lyon. Novelties in silks and velvets. 

Bardon & Ritton, Lyon. Silks, high 
novelties. 

Beraud, J., & Cie, Lyon. Silks, velvets and mixed tissues. 
Bertrand, Henry, Lyon. Mousselines, crepes, gauzes, etc. 
Bompiat, Brasseur & Pelletier, Lyon. Silks of all kinds 
for all countries. 

Bonnet & Cie (Les petits-fils de C. J.), Lyon. Silks and 
mixed tissues. 

Boucharlat Freres & Pellet, Lyon. Silks and mixed tissues. 
Bouvard & Burel, P., Lyon. Upholstery and oriental tissues. 
Brosset-Heckel & Cie, Lyon. Silks and satins. 
Brunet-Lecomte & Devay, Lyon. Silks and mixed tissues, 
mousselines and printed foulards. 

Chatel & Tassinari, Lyon. Upholstery and mural tapestries. 
Chavent Pere & Fils, Lyon. Silks and mixed tissues. 
Ferrand & Mouly, Lyon. Silks, high'novelties. 

Gourd & Cie, Lypn. Silks and mixed tissues. 

Henry, J. A., Lyon. Sacerdotal and upholstery tissues. 

Lamy & Gautier, Lyon. Upholstery tissues. 


Martin, Albert, Lyon. Upholstery and dress silk. 
Montessuy, G., Lyon. Mousselines and crepes. 

Ollagnier, Fructus & Descher, Lyon. Silk tissues. 
Permezel, L. & Cie, Lyon. Piece-dyed silks. 

Piotet, J M., & Rogue, J., Lyon. Silk upholstery and mixed 
tissues. Velvets. 

Poncet Pere & Fils, Lyon. Novelties in silk and mixed 
tissues. 

Schulz & Cie, Lyon. Silk and mixed tissues. 

SOCIETE ANONYME DES MANUFACTURERS DE VELOURS ET Pe- 

luches, Lyon. Velvets. 

Tresca Freres (Pierre et Joseph), Lyon. Novelties in silk 
and mixed tissues. 

Wies, Valet & Lacroix, Lyon. Silk novelties and em¬ 
broideries. 

Brossy, Balouzet & Cie, St. Etienne (Loire). 
St. Etienne Silk and velvet ribbons. Tie silks. 

Colcombet, Francois, & Cie., St. Etienne. 
Black and colored ribbons. 

David, J. B., St. Etienne. Silk and velvet ribbons. 

Decot, G., & Cie, St. Etienne. Silk ribbons and fafonnes. 
Epitalon Freres, St. Etienne. Silk and velvet ribbons. 
Forest, J., & Cie, St. Etienne. Silk and velvet ribbons. 
Silk and velvet tissues. 

Gauthier, Antoine, St. Etienne. Silk, satin and velvet ribbons. 
Giron Freres, St. Etienne. Silk and velvet ribbons. 

Troyet, Emile, & Cie, St. Etienne. Silk ribbons. 

RAW SILK, COCOONS, FILATURES AND THROWN 

SILKS (Moulinage). 

Armandy, Veuve G., & Cie, Lyon. 

Chabrieres, Morel & Cie. “ 

Guerin, Vve. , & Fils, “ 

Martin, Louis, & Cie, “ and at Lasalle (Gard) 

Palluat, Testenoire & Cie, “ 

Payen, L., & Cie, “ 

Pila & CiE, “ 

Boutbt Freres & Cie, Paris. 

Hesse, Edouard, Paris. 

Societe Anonyme “La Soie,” Paris. 


12 


Blanchon, Gaston, St-Julien-en-St-Alban (Ardeche). 

Chabekt, J., & Cie, Chomerac (Ardeche). 

Fougeirol, A., Aux Ollieres (Ardeche). 

Giraud, Gaston, Vals-les-Bains (Ardeche). 

Boudon, Louis & Co., St-Jean-du-Gard (Gard). 

Teissier du Cros, Ernest, Valleraugue (Gard). 

It should not be understood that all of the exhibits of the 
foregoing mentioned exhibitors, or indeed of others who have 
received high awards at this Exposition, represent tissues of 
silks or satins or velvets that are actually salable at the present 
time, or that have been actually sold for some time past. Con- 
cededly they represent rather the possibilities of this artistic 
industry, and not real current business of the firms showing 
them. 

Not infrequently, when inquiry was made by the writer of 
an exhibitor as to the amount of production during the past 
year of some noticeably beautiful tissues or ribbons, the answer 
was frankly made, “ Rien, Monsieur, Rien ” (Not a yard, Sir). 
While this fact does not detract from the merit of the goods 
themselves, or from the “esprit du corps,” of the manufac¬ 
turers exhibiting them, the fact is in marked contrast with 
some other exhibits, noticeably those from the United States, 
which will now be referred to. 

It may be frankly stated at the outset that 
United States of the silk exhibits of manufacturers from the 
America. United States, was incomplete and unsatis¬ 
factory in many respects. The chief defect 
was a very limited space available for the United States ex¬ 
hibits, and when the question with its limitations was first 
submitted in the Autumn of 1899, to our representative manu¬ 
facturers, they unanimously decided that it was impossible to 
do themselves credit in the small space allotted, and that there 
was no business incentive to cross the sea with their products 
in an endeavor to compete with the silk manufacturers of 
Europe. 

Later, however, better counsels prevailed, on the urgent 
request of the U. S. Commission, that the silk industry of 
America should be at least partially represented at this congress 
of the world’s industries, and the results achieved have been 
very satisfactory considering the circumstances. Their action 


% 


13 


is to the lusting credit of the few firms who did come forward 
at the eleventh hour, and consent to co-operate in this worthy 
enterprise ; and it is gratifying to be able to state that there 
was no award of merit given by the Silk Jury to any country— 
from Grand Prix to Honorable Mention,— that the silk manu¬ 
facturers of the United States did not receive. 

The limited time left to them after they came to a decision 
to exhibit, was so short that they were unable to make goods 
specially for the exposition, and this fact and the other 
material facts of the situation, so far as the silk-manufacturers 
of the United States was concerned, was brought to the atten¬ 
tion of the Jury by the American representative of the Jury, 
who is the Secretary of the Silk Association of America at 
New York, and who is the writer of this report. The following 
is a translation of his address to the Members of the Jury, 
on the occasion of their visit to the United States Section, 
when examining and judging silks on June 18. 

EXPOSITION OF AMERICAN SILKS IN PARIS 1900. 

“ The exhibition of silks made by American manufacturers at this Uni¬ 
versal Congress includes samples of sewing silk, embroidery silk, machine 
twist, ribbons, lining silks, silks for ties and scarfs, and silk tissues 

“ It is specially necessary to bear in mind that these goods represent the 
ordinary stock of the manufacturers; that they have been selected from their 
current production and are in no sense the result of a selection made on pur¬ 
pose for the occasion. One cannot for one moment expect that these goods 
will bear comparison with the beautiful foreign goods, prepared with so much 
art and expressly for this exhibition, but the American exhibit will at least 
demonstrate the capacity of the American manufacturer to meet the demands 
of the prevailing market in his country. The merit of the American manu¬ 
facturer is his power of manufacturing promptly and well, whatever the people 
want, without in any way over-stocking his shelves with out-of-date goods. 

“ High grade novelties are not for the time being fashionable in America, 
and our exhibition may perhaps be considered deficient in this respect. The 
goods which we expose are sold at moderate prices, made for the great mass of 
our general public, and are goods whic . our manufacturers are well able to 
make. Nevertheless although our exhibition is far from being complete, a 
very exact idea is given of the goods in current demand in our country. We 
dare to hope therefore that our exhibit will merit examination and considera¬ 
tion, and that you will find in our products and amongst the names of the 
manufacturers sending the goods, sufficient to recommend them to your 
attention. 

“ In the American Section, Classe 83, you can see also looms in operation, 
which I think will interest you. and deserve inspection; the two American 
looms representing our industry are perhaps more advanced than the French, 


14 — 


Swiss, or German looms, in the simplicity of their mechanism, in the rapidity 
of their movement and consequently in the increase of the daily wage of the 
weaver. 

“ Allow me in concluding, to express to my colleagues of the International 
Jury, the hope that the motto of the Silk Association of America ‘a fila corona’ 
(from a thread glory), may crown in your awards some of the goods manu- 
fa tured by the silk manufacturers of the United States. 

“ I trust that the cordial relations and the rapid communication which 
exists to-day between the great nations of the world may continue and increase, 
and that like the shuttles in the looms may weave a sentiment of friendship 
and fraternity which shall envelop all in prosperity and peace. 

Signed: Franklin Al-EN, 

Member of the International Jury from the United States. 
Paris, June 18, 1900. 

The following are the awards of merit to the silk manu¬ 
facturers of the United States as finally confirmed: 

Exhibitors: Awards: 

Richardson Silk Co., of New The Grand-Prix d’Honneur, 
York, Chicago, and Belding, being the highest award 
Michigan. of merit given to any 

exhibitor, at the Paris 
Exposition of 1900. 

The claim made by the Richardson Silk Co., for the various 
articles of their beautiful exhibit is as follows: 

IOO YARDS SEWING SILKS. 

Smoothness, Finish, Variety of colors, Length, Evenness of 
thread, Superior stock. 

50 YARDS SEWING SILKS. 

Full yardage, Number of colors, Even twist, Lustre, Superior 
stock, Finish. 

16 Yards button-hole twist. 

Correct matching of colors, Even twist, Size of thread, Full 
length, Superior stock. 

IO YARDS BUTTON-HOLE TWIST. 

Full yardage, Superior stock, Even twist, Size of thread, Finish. 
WASH EMBROIDERY SILKS. 

Superior stock, Extra strength, Great lustre, Variety of true 
colors, perfectly blended; Evenness of thread, Number of shades, 
Smoothness in working, Purity and permanence of dye, Em¬ 
broidery Silk absolutely fast dye, Convenience of skein. 

KNITTING SILKS. 

Size of thread, Evenness of twist, Smoothness, Variety of shad¬ 
ings, Full weight. 


GOLD TIGER MACHINE TWIST. 

Purity of dye, Quality of stock, Evenness, Smoothness, Yard- 
age, Strength, Firmness of twist, Finish. » 

IMPERIAL MACHINE TWIST. 

Superiority of stock, Finish, Strength, Length, Smoothness, 
Purity of dye, Firmness of twist. 

PERFECT MACHINE TWIST. 

Quality of stock, Number of colors, Evenness of thread. Length, 
Smoothness, Finish. 
tailors’ button-hole twist. 

Superior stock, Purity of dye, Evenness, Firmness of twist> 
Length, Strength. 

SAMPLE CARD. 

Arrangement, General utility. 


AWARDS OF GOLD MEDALS (MEDAILLE D’OR). 


Exhibitor. 

Empire Silk Co., New York and 
Paterson, N. J. 

Liberty Silk Co., New York City. 

John N. Stearns & Co., New York 
and Elmira, N. Y., Williamsport, 
Pa., and Petersburg, Va. 

Johnson, Cowdin & Co., New York, 
Paterson, N. J., and Phoenixville, 
Pa. 


Products. 

Novelties in scarfs (tie silks). 

Warp print display (dress silks). 
Weave and finish of black silks. 


Silk and faconne ribbons. 


AWARD OF SILVER MEDAL (MEDAILLE D’ARGENT). 

Pelgram & Meyer, New York; Dress silks and ribbons. 
Paterson and Boonton, N. J., Har¬ 
risburg, Pa. 


AWARDS OF BRONZE MEDALS (MEDAILLE BRONZE). 


Doherty & Wadsworth, New York 
and Paterson, N. J. 

Paterson Ribbon Co., New York and 
Paterson, N. J. 

Smith & Kaufmann, New York. 
Cardinal & Becker, Paterson, N. J. 


Jacquard, broche, crepe de chine, 
gauzes, etc. 

Fancies and plain ribbons. 

Fancies and plain ribbons. 

Silk doublures and mixed goods. 


AWARDS OF HONORABLE MENTION. 

Stern, Pohly & Hermann, New Dress silks and fancies. 
York, and Paterson, N. J. 

Bridgeport Silk Co., Bridgeport, Dress silks and fancies. 
Conn. 






16 — 


An interesting exhibit of sewing silks, ma- 
Canada. chine twist, embroidery, silks, etc., was made 

by the Corticelli Silk Co. of Saint John 
near Quebec, Canada. This is practically an American concern, 
certain well known gentlemen in Florence, Mass, and New- 
London, Conn., being the principal stockholders of the Com¬ 
pany. It was, therefore, to be expected that the exhibit of the 
Corticelli Co., would have a high degree of merit, and the Jury 
awarded ihem a gold medal. 

The Castle Braid Company of Brooklyn, New York, 
exhibiting braids and trimmings of a high grade of excellence 
were not judged by the Silk Jury, but were placed in class 82. 

The exhibit of two Crompton and Knowles looms in opera¬ 
tion by Messrs. Anderson Brothers, of Paterson, N. J., to 
which reference has been made in this report, were re-classed in 
class 77. 

A distressing incident of the American exhibit was that a 

« 

highly creditable exhibit of high novelties in silk tissues, sent 
in due season by Messrs. Newwitter and Migel of New York 
(Gotham Silk Mills, Astoria, New York), was not shown to the 
Jury, and was unknown to the writer until reported to him on 
July 18, by Mr. Migel who arrived in Paris on the previous 
day. 

On the morning of July 18, Mr. Migel went to the United 
States Silk exhibit, expecting to see his goods displayed, and 
was dumbfounded to be told that none had been received from 
him. On his insisting that they had been duly sent with the 
others in March, search was made, and in a short time his 
goods were discovered stowed away under the show cases. 
This regrettable incident in partly due to the cramped quarters 
of the United States exhibit, owing to lack of reasonable space 
for the storage and display of goods, and partly to the 
negligence of those having the exhibits in charge. 

The writer is much mortified by this failure of justice to one 
of our most progressive and highly respected silk manufacturers 
in the United States. Had Mr. Migel arrived in Paris 
48 hours earlier, the wrong might have been righted, as the 
Silk Jury per sc (class 83) held their final meeting on July 17, 
to put the finishing touches on their report to the Group Jury. 

This, however, is the only unpleasant incident connected 


with the writer's relation to the Paris Exposition of 1900. 
vVhile the work of the Jury has been arduous and almost 
incessant in one form or another since May 31, it is an abiding 
pleasure to have been associated with so many gentlemen of 
affability and distinction, representatives of the silk industry of 
the world; and the writer will long cherish the delightful 
memories of comradeship which has been one of the marked 
features in the life of the International Silk Jury, of 1900. On 
that date, May 31, our Jury was formally organized by the 
election of the following named gentlemen as officers:— 

Mr. Aug. Chabrieres, of Lyon, President 
Officers Mr. Heinrich Schultz, of Crefeld, Vice- 

of the president. 

Jury Mr. J. B. Piodet, of Lyon, Rapporteur. 

Mr. Clement Brossy, of St. Etienne, Secre¬ 
tary. 

The duties of the Jury in examining and judgingthe exhibits 
were divided into two sections, and a President of each was 
elected as follows: 

Raw silk, cocoons, filatures and thrown silk, sewings and 
twist : Mr. Siro Colombo, of Milan, Italy, President. 

Tissues of silk, satin and velvets: Mr. Pierre Tresca, of 
Lyon, President. 

I append the names of all the Members of the Jury and the 
countries they respectively represent. 

Awards were also made as follows to “ collaborateurs et co- 
operateurs” of American exhibiting firms: 

Richardson Silk Co., 3 gold medals. 

Empire Silk Co., i silver medal. 

Liberty Silk Co., i silver medal. 

Johnson, Cowdin & Co., 3 silver and 4 bronze medals. 

Pelgram & Meyer, 2 bronze medals and 1 honorable mention. 

* 

It is only fair to say that this list would have been much 
larger had the exhibitors and the American representative on 
the Jury known earlier that awards of this nature were to be 
made. In some instances lists of “ collaborateurs et coopera- 
teurs ” deemed worthy of recognition by the Jury for con¬ 
spicuous merit and service were received from the United 
States exhibitors too late for consideration. 

In closing I beg to express my acknowledgement for assist- 


18 — 


ance received from and courtesies shown by all the officers of 
the U. S. Commission to the Paris Exposition of 1900, and 
especially from the following- named: 

Hon. F. W. Peck, U. S. Commissioner General. 

Professor J. H. Gore, Juror-in-Chief, American Jurors. 

Mr. John H. McGibbons, Director of Exploitation and 
American Director of Group XIII. 


Respectfully submitted, 





— i 9 — 


Membres of the Silk Jury 

(class 83, Group 13) 
PARIS EXPOSITION OF igOO. 


Baumlin, F. (Poeckes, Baumlin & Co., Paris). 

France. Brossy, Clement Secretary of the Silk Jury, 1900; 

and President d’honneur de l’Union des Syndicats 
patronaux du Commerce et de l’lndustrie de St. Etienne. 

Boucharlat, Augustin (Boucharlat Freres and Pellet, Lyon). 

*Chabrieres, Auguste x , President of the Silk Jury, 1900; and President de 
l’association syndicale des Marchands de Soie et de l’Union des Chambres 
Syndicates Lyonnaise. 

Chancel, Louis, President du Syndicat general Frangais du Moulinage de 
la Soie, Montelimar. 

Franck, Alexandre, Societe anonyme de filature de SchapDe, de Lyon. 

*Gauthier, Antoine, x . Vice-President de la Chambre de Commerce de 
Saint-Etienne. 

Guerin, Ferdinand, ancien President du Syndicat des Marchands de Soie et 
de 1 Union des Chambres Syndicates, Lyon. 

Hesse, Edouard, Juge au Tribunal de Commerce de la Seine. Paris. 

Laguionie, Gustave, President de la Chambre Syndicale du Commerce et de 
l’lndustrie des Soieries. 

*Pila, Ulysse, x , Membre de la Chambre de Commerce de Lyon et du Con- 
seil Superieur des Colonies. 

* Piotet, Jean-Martinon, x , Reporter of the Silk Jury, 1900; and Vice- 
President du Comite des Industries Textiles, Paris, 1900. 

Remond, Joseph (Morand, Remond & Co., Paris), Membre de la Chambre 
Syndicale de l’lndustrie et du Commerce Parisien des Soieries. 

*Tresca, Pierre, x . President of the '1 issues Division of the Silk Jury, 1900; 
and President de la Chambre Syndicale de l’Association de la Soierie 
Lyonnaise. 

Wies, Joseph, President de la Chambre Syndicale de la Fabrique Lyonnaise. 

AUSTRIA.— Friedmann, Edouard, Directeur de la Premiere Caisse 
d’Epargne a Vienne. 

CHINA.— Sculfort, Louis, Paris, Conseiller du Commerce Exterieur de la 
France, and Membre de la Mission Lyonnaise en Chine. 

GERMANY.— Schultz, Heinrich, Cologne (Hoeninghaus and de Grief, 
Crefeld). 

GREAT BRITAIN.— Chickell, F. H., London. (Did not serve with the 
Jury.) 

GREECE.— Chryssaphides, C., Paris. 

ITALY.— Colombo, Siro, Milan, President of Raw Silk Division of the Silk 
Jury, 1900. 

Allasia, Eug, Philibert (Allasia Brothers, Turin). 

JAPAN. —Saito Ouhei. 

RUSSIA.— Ganeschine, Professeur de l’lnstitute du Designe, Saint Petersburg. 


* Indicates Cross of the Legion of Honor of France. 





SPAIN.— Borell, Pascuale (Borell Brothers & Co., Barcelona). 
SWITZERLAND.—Schwarzenbach, Robert, Thahveil, Zurich. 

Streuli, Emile (Baumann, Streuli & Co., Zurich). 
UNITED STATES.— Allen, Franklin, Secretary of the Silk Association of 
America, New York. 


Assistant Secretary of the Silk Jury, 1900: 

M. Joanny Pey, 7, rue de la Republique, Lyon, 

Secretaire archiviste de l’Union des Chambies Syndicales Lyonnaises. 




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